Ruohan Runway AW23

Paris, France

For the AW23 collection, Ruohan initiated her exploration into the fundamental formal conditions of clothing under the theme of “Formless Form”. Her journey began by dissecting the process of translating two-dimensional concepts into three-dimensional garments. Transitioning from flat patterns to finished garments, the fabric begins with a static geometric template and adapts to the dynamic movements of the human body. Ruohan creatively engages with the delicate balance between chaos and order by initiating designs with a simple square. The inherent geometric purity of these flat patterns results in unique formal consequences when worn, reshaping in response to any discordant relationships with the body. A final decision is reached when the “ideal” harmonizes with the “real”.

For the runway design, Studio Profile employs a similar process and geometry. An elongated rectangular fabric is centered, repositioning the audience, backstage, and photography areas to different sides of the rectangle. The space is activated as the fabric's two ends are suspended. The gracefully draped void creates a subtle transition for models to enter and exit. A pocket is formed in the middle to receive the overhead light, casting shadows that transform the three-dimensional fabric back into its two-dimensional essence.

2023秋冬系列中，RUOHAN以“无形之形"为主题，探讨了服装本质的形态。创作之旅从剖析平面到立体的过程开始。平面图案到成衣，是面料的静态几何到适应人体的三维动态运动。RUOHAN以纯粹的方形作为开端，实现了混乱与秩序之间的微妙平衡。二维图案固有的几何纯粹性会在三维身体上产生独特的效果，平面与立体的关系从中被重塑。当“理想”与“现实”协调一致时，答案便呈现于此。

秀场设计中，Studio Profile 以“无形之形"为蓝本探索方形的平面到立体转化过程。长达30米的矩形织物贯穿整个秀场，将观众、舞台和摄影区从空间上被重新划分。当平面织物的两端悬空时，三维空间便被激活。居中镂空的面料在三维变化中为模特创造出微妙的挑空舞台。这个巨大的方形开口优雅且微妙的吸收着光、创造着阴影，又重新将三维空间通过光影转化为二维图形。

Client: Ruohan
Location: Paris, France
Completion: 2023.03
GFA: 250 sqm
Design Scope: Set design
Interior Team: Josh Ren, Baoer Wang
Production: Devi Sok
Music: Maison Labtonic