Ruohan Runway SS24

Paris, France








Ruohan has composed a retrospective series for these three seasons—23AW/24SS/24AW—based on the themes of points, lines, and surfaces. For the middle chapter of the series, clothing and architecture meet in Palais de Tokyo in the form of ‘lines'.

Among the three interdependent elements of surface, line, and point, the line has the most freedom. Like light, it extends endlessly; like the horizon, it divides day and night; like the contours under the painter's brush, it outlines all shapes. In text or in paintings, vivid worlds can emerge with a few stokes of lines on a flat surface. Inspired by Chinese landscape paintings, delineating ambiguity through lines also inspires us to consider whether it's possible to recreate such feat using “lines” in this runway space.

We start by scoring three lines on the floor plan, mapping out the circulation. The model weaves through these three lines to create visual ambiguity. The audience is seated on one side of the runway to observe this colossal “painting”.

The three lines manifest themselves as three-dimensional veils in space. Models shuttle between between the illusory and the real. When the breeze caused by model's movement gently lifts the curtains, the audience catches a glimpse of the different layers. Like a scroll unfolding before the audience, people and light interweave within the scene. The lines flutter between the incessant flow of actions, extending infinitely along the ray of lights.

Weighted lines, layered planes. Together with Ruohan, we measure the “infinite” with “lines”.




Ruohan为23AW/24SS/24AW这三个系列以点,线,面为题谱写了一首倒叙的篇章,作为这三章倒叙的终曲,服装和建筑以“线”的面貌在东京宫相遇。

面、线、点三个相辅相成的意向中,线最自由。像光,照射无尽;像地平线,分割日夜;像画家笔下的轮廓,勾勒出万物之形。无论是文字亦或是书画,线的精妙在于平面之上,在二维之中创造世界之观。受中国山水画启发,虚与实全然以线勾勒,也引发我们思考,是否可以在这个有限的秀场空间以“线”为观众勾勒出一篇虚实画作?

起初,我们从平面入手,在空间中画出三条线,意在规划模特动线,在这三条线中依次穿梭来创造出虚实的视觉。观众席则被规划在秀场一侧观看这幅巨画。

当这三条线在空间中被立体化,“纱”作为这些“线”的三维载体,仿佛堆叠的绵延意识。模特穿梭于亦虚亦实之中,飘忽不定之中。当行走所带来的风将纱帘轻轻拂起,观众便可在虚的纱中一瞥层次中的实。此刻画卷铺开在观众眼前,人与人,人与光交织于其中。线在此刻无限延续,透过纱,若过川流不息的脚步,一切在虚幻和真实中穿行,沿着光前进。

以线做重力,将平面堆叠。我们和ruohan一同用线度量着无限。








Client: Ruohan
Location: Paris, France
Completion: 2023.10
GFA: 250 sqm
Design Scope: Set design
Interior Team: Josh Ren, Baoer Wang
Model Photos: Shoji Fujii
Production: Devi Sok




Mark